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jaghataiOffline
Post subject: Reduced strength defensive setups  PostPosted: Jan 16, 2007 - 11:54 PM



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What are some defensive setups/strategies for deploying 10 (or less) players? I am new to playing agility teams (usually I play Orcs...) and am not sure where to begin. I've seen people try to "fall back and delay" an advance, by dodging out and just getting in the way, but it seems to just make things worse. Also, any advice on cage breaking for a rookie Skaven team?
 
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BB_BabeOffline
Post subject: RE: Reduced strength defensive setups  PostPosted: Jan 17, 2007 - 09:42 AM



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With Skaven, the trick is to never let yourself get demoralised by a sudden lack of rats on the pitch. As long as you have 3 rats on the pitch, you have a chance of getting the ball and scoring. Just rat up, say "Squee!", and go get the ball.

Keep 1 rat downfield in scoring distance of the goalline. Scoring distance is your MA-1. The -1 still keeps you in movement distance even if you get blitzed and shoved back. Only rely on a GFI if you absolutely have to. By the time you actually get the ball and are trying to cross the goalline, the odds are tremendous that you've already used your reroll for this turn, if you still had one left anyway. No matter how desperate the situation, keep this rat in scoring position. As soon as you get the ball, you pass to her and run in for the goal. The other team will keep this rat marked all the time; if you're not making an attempt at getting the ball this turn (and the only reason why you're not is because it's physically impossible at the moment), then dodge out of the TZ and stay within scoring distance.

Blitz the ball-carrier, even if you have to dodge into the middle of a cage. This is the moment that a Runner with Strip Ball lives for, but a blodgy Runner is up to the task too. But in a pinch, any rat who's lucky enough to be on her feet can shout "Squee!" and dodge in for glory. If you have more than 3 rats, one of them should move in to neutralise the TZs of one or two of the outer corners of the cage, leaving a diagonal path for the Runner to dodge in.

As soon as the ball is knocked loose, your 3rd rat declares a pass action, runs in, picks up the ball, and throws the pass.

Odds are, this will fail. Repeat each turn until it finally works.


Cheers,
Maureen

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CramyOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 17, 2007 - 09:58 AM



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Maureen gave good advice. You have to play very aggressive with rats. Not agressive in the sense of trying to hit the other team. You need to be aggressive when trying to get to the ball.

First-off, you want to avoid the other team from getting the ball and caging. You want the kick skill on a linerat, then block, strip ball, dauntless, maybe wrestle and horns on one or two GRs depending on your style ... and other skills that help popping the ball.

Kick deep, then get to the ball and/or ball carrier before he can protect the ball.

If that fails, slowing down the cage is actually not a very good idea. You want your opponent to not score at all ideally, or if they do score they need to score quickly. That will give you a chance to score again. Attack the ball carrier as Maureen suggested. If you can't get to the ball, try to attack stragglers to damage the team. The intent here is that if you can't get to the ball, you don't want your opponent to stall for the remainder of the half. So if you become violent with the stragglers (crowd push, gang-foul, etc...), then your opponent will probably score sooner than he wanted, allowing you to get another shot at scoring.

The Rat Ogre can be useful here. He is a threat to the cage. As he is a Big Guy it is risky to rely on him. But he will cause your opponent to stay away from the sidelines and will cause him problems with the cage. The last thing that he'll want is for the Rat Ogre to end-up in the middle of the cage. Even if you don't take any actions witht the Rat Ogre, your opponent will be worried and have to consider what you can do with him.

Marc-Andre
 
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SpazzfistOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 17, 2007 - 10:03 AM



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It also depends on what team you have. When I play 'flings then I tend to be a bit more aggressive and crazy with them! By utlizing the stunty skill, you can get into places that no gutter runner would ever dream of - and can use this to tie up tackle zones, lend assists, or blitz the ball carrier!

When you are down players though, it is generally a good idea to stay out of tackle zones and make your opponent move slowly. With the LRB5, it seems that wrestleis going to be a great cage breaking skill too!


Spazz

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DoubleskullsOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 17, 2007 - 07:38 PM
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Very fast teams like skaven can generally afford to put any players past the LOS 3 in a bunch near the middle of the pitch. Then you can flood whichever side the opposition go down.

Skaven do not do the "dodge" away defence elves can use. AG3 on the majority of players makes this far too high risk and generally a guarantee of a short turn. Instead the best defensive strategy is to prevent a cage forming the 1st place. Get a player with Kick. Place the ball deep and flood the back field with Gutter Runners and other players. Any mistake or bad luck by your opponent ought to be exploitable and you can score from it.

Once a cage has formed you still have options. Gutter Runners can dodge into 3 tackle zones with a 5+ rerollable dodge. That's a 55% chance of success. If you have Horns or Dauntless you may be able to get a 1 dice block on the ball carrier - giving you a chance of getting the ball loose - for another Gutter Runner to pick up and run away with.

If this isn't an option then avoid being engaged where possible by blocking instead of dodging. A 1 dice block is just as likely to succeed as a 3+ dodge - so hit them and get a chance of a casualty. If you can use free players and the blitz to maximise your 2 dice blocks whilst leaving your opponent with as few hits as possible against your Av7 players.

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TuernRedvenomOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 23, 2007 - 02:19 AM



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      Doubleskulls wrote:

If this isn't an option then avoid being engaged where possible by blocking instead of dodging. A 1 dice block is just as likely to succeed as a 3+ dodge - so hit them and get a chance of a casualty. If you can use free players and the blitz to maximise your 2 dice blocks whilst leaving your opponent with as few hits as possible against your Av7 players.

A remark on this for Skaven, often it's best to just stand there and get hit next turn. Anyone hitting your linerats is not hunting down your gutters.
I rarely take 1 die blocks with linerats without block unless it's against players that will likely get away from me anyway, have low armour and no block: like wood elf linemen. Especially against players with block I don't take 1-die blocks with blockless linerats, your chances of going down are equal to him going down, true. But your AV is probably less (so your chance of getting injured is higher) and even more importantly if you fail and get injured your opponent didn't even have to take an action for it. He is free to move away next turn, which is something you probably don't want to. Usually I just stand there, they will hit me but often they'll bring in another assist which means that lowly linerat is keeping 2 players occupied which is great! If he's taking a lot of 1-die block he'll probably start burning rerolls as well, which is another thing skaven love to see their opponent do.

The real trick to surviving with skaven though is to set up those 1 on 1 situations with linerats (your linerats are really just tying down an opponent) and then use your gutters to put a lot of pressure on the ball so he cannot risk taking those blocks early on and needs to focus on protecting the ball rather then beating your linerats to pulp. Of course you need to take any 2-die block you can get because if you can get the numbers advantage with skaven the game is as good as won.
 
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DoubleskullsOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 23, 2007 - 07:09 PM
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You are right of course about taking on opponents with block.

Without block though the odds are even against Av8. So 3 downs for them (pow, pow push & both down) and 2 for you (both down & skull). So that means you'll get 50% more chances to knock them down than be knocked down and coincidentally Av8 is exactly 50% more resistant to breaks than Av7. So you have a higher chance of knocking them over and overall an equal chance of getting the casualty/KO. IMO that's a pretty good trade - if the field postion justifies the risk - especially since many opponents will get a 2 dice block in their turn anyway. Against Av9 or higher the odds are worse so its not as worthwhile.

If your opponent has block then its even chances of going prone and you'll lose the casualty war - plus the positional disadvantage you pointed out.

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TuernRedvenomOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 24, 2007 - 01:11 AM



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      Quote:

if the field postion justifies the risk

And this is the key sentence here, unless playing against elves I've found it's rarely worth it as the damage from a failure (-> opposing player free to move) usually outweighs the benefits of success (opposing player can probably only get back up).

But I agree with you though.
 
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