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Sir_Thom |
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Post subject: Question - Numbering figures
 Posted: Apr 08, 2009 - 04:51 PM
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Joined: Aug 30, 2005
North NJ
Posts: 11
Location: North NJ
Status: Offline
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Greetings,
Have a noob question....about numbering the teams figures.
Do I number them according to the team roster? or do I number them according to what postion they are ... example, 01-16 Linemen, 01-04 Blitzers, etc...
Thanks for any and all assistance!
Sir Thom |
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Apocrypha |
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Post subject:
Posted: Apr 08, 2009 - 08:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 15, 2008
Port Hope Ontario
Posts: 101
Location: Port Hope Ontario
Status: Offline
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I number my teams completely at random. I've got players number everything between 00 to 457. I paint the number on the front and back of the base as my hand isn't steady enough to paint on the actual mini.
When it comes to the roster I just put the number between the roster slot and the character name so it looks something like this:
1 - #27 Johnny Blitzer
That way it is easy to replace dead characters with one that is a different position or a journeyman without having to give the same actual number to more than one model. |
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Doubleskulls |
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Post subject:
Posted: Apr 08, 2009 - 11:43 PM
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Ex-Rulz Committee
Joined: Mar 05, 2003
Undisclosed
Posts: 2627
Location: Kent, UK
Status: Offline
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It doesn't matter so long as each player is uniquely identifable.
Your roster is 1-16 but so long as it clearly includes the identifying feature. So one of my teams has letters (A, B, C etc) on the bases, and then their names on the roster are Oak (A).
I've also seem people name the mini - so Hera written on the base and the roster. |
_________________
Ian 'Double Skulls' Williams
SLOBB
NAF Racial Results
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smeborg |
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Post subject:
Posted: Apr 09, 2009 - 04:31 AM
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Joined: Feb 16, 2003
Posts: 223
Status: Offline
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As a general rule, I start with the most expensive players (e.g. Blitzers) at 1, 2 etc., then follow with the next most expensive (e.g. Catchers), then the next most expensive (e.g. Throwers), then the least expensive (e.g. Linemen). If there is a lone Big Guy, he doesn't really need a number as he is uniquely identifiable. So I may put the Big Guy at no. 16 on the roster. These are just conventions that I follow because I find it easy for me to track the players, and (I hope) also for my opponent to do so.
I find it handy to put Roman numerals on the front and back of the bases of the figurines. This is very helpful for your opponent to identify players with skill advances. It can help you too!
Hope this helps. |
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TomB |
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Posted: Apr 09, 2009 - 05:40 AM
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Joined: May 06, 2004
Undisclosed
Posts: 101
Location: north east england
Status: Offline
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| I think as long as each miniature is identifiable to you and your opponent, as which one is which on the roster, then you can do whatever you want. I personally paint a vertical stripe on the front and back of the base in a colour denoting position, and then in that stripe write the number as per the roster. This not only helps opponents know who is who, but easily identifies who plays what position for the more difficult teams to tell, e.g. pro elves. |
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Tom B
Chrace Chargers
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Cramy |
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Post subject:
Posted: Apr 09, 2009 - 02:03 PM
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Joined: Nov 17, 2006
Canada
Posts: 403
Location: Canada
Status: Offline
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Apocrypha wrote: When it comes to the roster I just put the number between the roster slot and the character name so it looks something like this:
1 - #27 Johnny Blitzer
That way it is easy to replace dead characters with one that is a different position or a journeyman without having to give the same actual number to more than one model.
Good for mutating players, if you don't use magnets and replaceable limbs.
I'm starting to use this method as some players can play in different teams. Makes it easier to number the players without overlap compared to numbering them 1 to 16. Names would work to.
Goblins can play for Orcs, Gobins, Underwold and Chaos Pact. Some Big Guys. Dark Elves and Skaven linemen, etc ... I'm very slow at painting, so will start to have somewhat common colour schemes on my teams. So with the common colour schemes and wide numbering range I will be able to use the same minis on multiple teams.
But as others have said, the important thing is that your players are uniquely identifiable. Whether you use names, numbers, letters, other is irrelevant.
Most people number their players 1 to 16, and I haven't seen a pattern on how they number their players within that 1 to 16 range. |
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Cramy
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Tkkultist |
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Post subject:
Posted: Apr 15, 2009 - 07:11 PM
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Joined: Mar 06, 2009
Belleville, Ontario
Posts: 44
Location: Belleville, Ontario
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| something else that can work is using the brass etch numbers from forgeworld or scratch transfer numbers available from most historical model shops |
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daloonieshaman |
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Post subject:
Posted: Apr 25, 2009 - 11:31 PM
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Joined: Feb 28, 2003
United States of America
Posts: 883
Location: United States of America
Status: Offline
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As a general rule for MVP purposes I make sure:
1-16 (at least 1-11)
I can number them any number/letter what ever as long as
it is clear to my opponent and it is clear when my opponent awards my MVP (pulling one of the yellow numbers that came with 3rd edition box, or rolling a d16) |
_________________
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Best Painted: Rocky Mountain Rampage 2012, 2013, Avatar Blood Bowl Championship 2011
Stunty Cup: West Coast Quake 2012, Zlurpeebowl IV 2008
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BB_Babe |
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Post subject:
Posted: Apr 26, 2009 - 11:43 AM
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Joined: Sep 23, 2005
Posts: 211
Status: Offline
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I tend to number my own teams in order: Throwers, Catchers/Runners, Blitzers, Blockers, Liners, Big Guys.
I like to paint numbers on the uniforms/helmets. Ideally, I like to paint numbers on two oppositie sides of a figure so both players can ID for skills. Names too if there's room, and team logo.
I also realy like figures that have lots of open flat space for painting! I hate figures that are so crowded with nubbly bits that's there's no canvas left to paint on. |
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