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Khaine |
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Post subject: How to turn Greens into Molds.
 Posted: Sep 20, 2005 - 05:17 PM
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Joined: Sep 06, 2003
Posts: 193
Status: Offline
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| Is there a simple way to turn greens into molds? I want to make a series of trophies and seeing the prices for people actually making the molds from greens seem a bit well high. |
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Touch my Mini's and Pull Back A Stump!!!!!
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Emberbreeze |
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Post subject:
Posted: Sep 21, 2005 - 01:09 AM
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Joined: Feb 19, 2004
Posts: 323
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| you can do gravity casting at home if you only want to make a few simple models. Never done it myself but you can buy resin and metal for maybe £20-£30. |
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Khaine |
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Post subject:
Posted: Sep 21, 2005 - 06:30 PM
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Joined: Sep 06, 2003
Posts: 193
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| I think that's what I'm looking for, but I haven't been able to find anything locally. Thought I would see if anyone knows of a kit. |
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Touch my Mini's and Pull Back A Stump!!!!!
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BB_Babe |
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Post subject:
Posted: Sep 24, 2005 - 09:02 PM
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Joined: Sep 23, 2005
Posts: 211
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I've made some molds for hand-pouring figs. I'd figured out the basic system from having used some Prince August molds. Get hold of one of their starter kits if you can -- you'll get the tiny teflon skillet, silicon, hardboard frames and instructions. Practicing on this will give you a pretty good idea of what its all about.
I got a tube of high-temperature silicone gasket at an auto parts store for the molds. Used Lego blocks to make the shape to hold the mold. Used vaseline thinned with mineral spirits as a release agent inside the legos, on the master figure, and between the two halves of the mold as your making each stage.
Set the Lego frame on a smooth piece of hardboard. Also cut a piece of hardboard that fits snugly inside the Lego frame. When you make the second half, use this piece to press down on it to make a smooth flat surface. This will help clamp the mold shut while you're casting.
Pour the first half, set the figure in it, and press in the key locks. Let set completely. Do not remove the figure before making the second half.
When you make the first half of the mold, be sure to press some divots into it that will serve as locking keys to hold in alignment. When you make the second half on top of that, it will naturally create the matching parts of the locks.
As well as putting the figure(s) in the mold, make a conical lump for each one to put in with it as a pouring spout. You can use an XActo knife to carve some ventilation lines in the mold to help the casting. The vents are trial and error -- as you make the first few castings, you'll see the bits that aren't filling out right -- add vents to those bits. (And I've added vents to the Prince August molds too -- they help a lot.)
When you're ready to cast, sprinkle the inside of the mold with a bit of powdered silicon as a release agent. Clamp the mold with two pieces of hard-board on the outside (these keep the clamp from distorting the cavity). Melt some scrap figure metal (old ugly figs (without paint!), bits of sprue, etc.) in a tiny teflon pan on the stove top. Use good venitillation and a good respirator.
Stick a used matchstick into the molten metal. It should singe slightly when ready -- don't make the metal too hot -- it will damage the mold.
Try not to melt much more than you need for each casting, but you can keep re-using excess metal. Just pour off the lumps of slag and discard.
Hope that helps.
Cheers,
Maureen |
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masdavid |
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Post subject:
Posted: Oct 08, 2005 - 08:27 AM
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Joined: Sep 17, 2005
Posts: 1
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I've aso made some molds using silicone, but I use aquarium silicone that is much cheaper than high-temperature. it is said to only handle temperature up to 200C but i have used some of the molds about fifty times wihhout any damages. I also use a piece of modelling clay to press the fig into while I make the first half. This makes sharp edges around the copies without so much excess material to clean off. It also makes it easier to make sure that all details are covered in silicone and no air bubbles are trapped in the mold.
Regards - David |
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